Day 12: From Hallstatt to ViennaBreakfast in Hallstatt was amazing. It was easily the largest and best breakfast we've had on this trip (and we've had good ones). I even got to have super awesome donuts that were so moist! Mmmmm. Donuts for breakfast!
As the trip is getting closer to its end, we've started thinking about how to stay in touch after we depart, so I sent around the group list for people to add their emails and indicate if they'd like to connect on Facebook or Shutterfly after the trip. Everyone was interested, and we were excited to be able to stay connected to this great group of people once we returned to the states. We took an impromptu group picture in the square outside our hotel and then hit the road. |
Our Sobering Stop at Mauthausen
Our stop this morning was Mauthausen Concentration Camp. Iris gave us some history on the way. It was apparent how difficult it was for her to talk about this topic. She said several times how she needed to stick to the script or she'd stray too much. She talked about her grandfather who was a POW in Siberia for nine years after the war and walked nearly all the way back to Germany to get home. When he eventually got back to Germany, his family was stunned. Iris' dad didn't even recognize him. Her grandfather apparently never really wanted to talk about that experience or the war.
Mauthausen was as sobering as we thought it would be. We had downloaded the app to explain different stopping points around the camp. Seeing the ovens literally left me short of breath as did the autopsy room and cooler where they stored the dead bodies until they were burned. It was horrifying, really. Abby had anticipated this stop on the trip the entire time since this part of her history classes has been so vivid. She went a little further into the basement than I did and was really moved by the hall of names. In hindsight, I wish I'd have seen that too.
I found the sculptures and memorials on the grounds to be quite moving as well, and we spent some time walking through that area. As we did so, we saw the quarry in the distance and its long trail up to the camp. Later that evening, when I posted some pictures to Facebook, friends of ours from back home responded that their grandfather had survived three years in that same camp! They even asked about the death walk up from the quarry. The visit had already been moving, but this personal connection made it hit home even harder. It will take a while to process all of this and give it the perspective it deserves. |
On to ViennaAfter our stop at Mauthausen, we were off to Vienna. Wim got us there is record time, and we all wished him a fond farewell as he drove off. He was a great driver, and he left to shouts of "Hit it, Wim!"
We had about an hour in our room to settle in before our orientation tour with Gerard. Apparently, Mozart wrote one of his famous pieces while staying in our hotel. Cool! Gerard took us on about a 1.5 hour walking tour through the inner square of the city and pointed out highlights and key historical notes. There was a lot of history right in our area of town. Once again, our central location is priceless! |
After supper at a local restaurant and some gelato for dessert, we decided to go to the Mozart telecast in the park by one of the churches. It was about a 10-15 minutes walk, and our guide had done an ice job pointing out landmarks, so it was an easy route to navigate.
The park was cool with benches totally lining all the paths for lots of seating options for people. The place was very busy, and there was a mall of food and drink booths that were packed with people. In front of the church was a series of benches and bleachers with padded seats. Against the church was a very large screen that was televising the music. There were a variety of introductory pieces, including a cool MTV style production of a string duo performing what I assume was an original piece that merged classical music with rock. We thoroughly enjoyed the beautiful night. In fact, it really did feel magical! |
Day 13: All Day in Vienna--Museums, Opera, Treasures and a Farewell
We began our morning tour with a little mass transit lesson on how to ride the subway. I love how these tours help prepare people to travel on their own. Following Iris' directions, we all successfully got on, traveled one stop and got off together. Then we hopped on a bus to the Third Man Museum.
The museum has been part of Rick’s tours for the past 4 years, ever since he visited it himself and saw the history of WWII history embedded into the displays of movie history. The movie starred Orson Welles and never did well in Vienna since it depicted WWII, which Austrians largely attempt to ignore even today. In fact, Gerard told us that 56% of Austrians don’t known anything about the killing of the Jews and 58% of graduates from HS have not even heard of the Holocaust. This mortified him, and it probably also explains why Mauthausen was so quiet when we were there. Besides for the members of our tour group, there had been very few visitors at the concentration camp. The Third Man Museum, while it centers around the film, is really a treasure of authentic WWII history, complete with photos, reel to reel film, letters, interviews with holocaust survivors and soldiers, bombing maps, movie posters and so much more. It was really fascinating. |
After this stop, we headed to the opera house which was really cool. The opera is off season for July and August, so there were no actors there or shows in production, but we were able to tour the building. It needed to be rebuilt after WWII bombing which left it nearly totally destroyed. However, this renewal also means it has been updated with the latest and greatest, like video screens in the seats for translations. We found it fascinating that they run a different opera every day for months! Amazing! The entry prices are reasonable due to the fact that it is owned by the city, who absorbs a loss on it.
The Treasury
Our next stop was the treasury, which is like a museum for artifacts. This was quite interesting and really chronicled the Hapsburg rule. Those Hapsburgs had quite the dynasty!
There were so many impressive religious displays: the tooth of John the Baptist, remains from all the apostles, a splinter from the cross and the holy grail (a shell bowl). Other impressive artifacts in the treasury included fabric from Christ’s robe and another piece of the cloth he was wrapped in during his burial. We also saw the lance that pierced Christ’s side on the cross. It is said that no battle has ever been lost when that spear has been used. Seeing all of these religious artifacts actually did stir me. |
The Treasury featured an enormous 2600 carrot emerald container. It is the most expensive piece in the museum.
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Perspective: The Holy Grail
The Hapsburgs used these religious artifacts to prove their place in the Holy Roman Empire and to show they were blessed leaders. We wondered if all these artifacts were authentic or if the Hapsburgs simply had enough money and influence to convince everyone that they were real. In either case, it was fascinating to see them and interesting to hear that the Hapsburgs found the religious artifacts (particularly the holy grail) to be more valuable than anything else in the treasury, even the 2600 carrot emerald. |
After our tour, we purchased some lunch at the grocery store and took it to the beautiful local park for a picnic. We walked through the gardens and then back to St. Peter's Church where we heard some live organ music. We got there early (before the scheduled recital), but they were already playing—probably practicing, but it sounded great! We stayed for awhile and then went to St. Stephen's Catholic Church with the big spires and herringbone roof. It was enormous and impressive.
Farewell Vienna; Farewell FriendsThat evening, we gathered one last time as a group for our farewell supper. There were many laughs, hugs and heartfelt goodbyes. We have really enjoyed this group and our tour through Germany, Austria and Switzerland.
It was filled with many magic moments, beautiful sights and newly gained perspectives. We were so grateful that we were able to share it with Lori and Abby. It was a special trip made even better by special people. What a GAS! We will definitely be back! |